Shoe and method of making the same



Jan. 29, 1935. J. 5. KAMBORIAN 1,989,279

SHOE AND METHOD OF mum THE SAME Original Filed Feb. 16, 1931 fave 7%?Patented Jan. 29, 1935 Jacob' S. Kamborian, West Newton,

Mass., as-

signor to Northern Machine 00., Inc., Boston, Mass., a corporation ofMassachusetts Original application February 16, 1931, Serial No. Dividedand this application May 9,

1932, Serial No. 610,013

6 Claims.

This invention relates to footwear and more particularly to a shoe ofimproved construction and to a process of lasting such a shoe, thepresent application being a division of my copending application SerialNo. 515,921, filed February 16, 1931. In accordance with the usualprocesses of lasting,.the upper is pulled over at the toe, commonly bymachine, and tacks are temporarily inserted at the toe to hold thisportion of the upper in place while the shoe is lasted at the sides.After completion of the side lasting, the tacks at the toe are removed,and the toe and heel lasting is commonly completed on a bed lastercomprising movable wiper plates, which are caused to move inwardly andover the projecting marginal portions of the upper, thereby causing saidprojecting portions to become pleated or folded inwardly over and uponthe under surface of the inner sole. While held in this position by thewiper plates, the operator inserts ,closely spaced tacks to secure theedge of the upper to the inner sole. pleated material at the toe, it isusual to trim oif that part of the toe box, which projects below thelevel of the last bottom and thus in the completed shoe the toe boxfinds no anchorage to the inner sole. For this reason the toe portion ofthe shoe is not as strong as might be desired, and the upper tends tobulge or spread laterally when the shoe is subjected to the poundingoperation and also during use.

Furthermore according to the usual methods of lasting, even after thelower part of the box has been removed, as above described, the bulk ofthe pleated material at the toe is so great that the relatively movablewiper plates of the bed laster will not flatten it down to a levelsurface, and

after lasting it is necessary to grind away this part of the shoebottom, a crude operation which tears away portions of the margins ofthe upper and lining and which necessitates the further operation ofpounding to reduce the remainder to a passably fiat condition. Theseoperations of grinding and pounding add to the cost of making the shoeand in the case of the cheaper grades, where the lasts are pulled assoon as possible after lasting, this pounding and grinding slows up theentire operation.

In accordance with the present invention I provide a shoewhich may bemade accurately to conform to the last at the toe portion and whichretains its shape indefinitely after lasting without tendency to spreador.bulge,.-these improved results being due in part at least to the factthat the margin of the toe box, as well as the margin In order to avoidundue fullness of the.

of the usual materials) but preferably having its forward or lowermargin notched and also skived, such notched marginal portion beingcoated or impregnated with a suitable quick-setting cement preferably ofa kind which when heated tends firmly to unite the toe box to adjacentparts. The thermoplastic binder of the well known Beckwith box toepossesses the requisite qualities to some extent at least. I alsoprovide a heater device, conveniently a stiff plate of metal shaped toconform more or less closely to the toe portion of the shoe to belasted, such plate having a handle or other suitable means by which itmay be manipulated. This plate may be heated to the desired temperaturein any suitable manner, as for example by the use of a stove, or bysupplying it with electrical resistance coils. y

In lasting the shoe, the toe is first pulled over .according to usualmethods and the sides are lasted. The pulling over tacks are thenremoved, the projecting margin of the lining is trimmed awaysubstantially flush with the under surface of the sole, and the operatorthen wipes in the marginal portion of the upper and the toe box by meansof the bed laster. The wiper plates of the laster are then withdrawn andlifted, and if the material of the upper is especially thick or bulky,the central part of the pleated material may be shaved oif level. Theheater plate is laid upon the pleated material and the wipers of the bedleft there for a short time to allow the adhesive on the box toinfiltrate into the adjacent insole and upper. parts in this positionwhile the operator is completing the lasting of the heel. Since theheater plate is continuous, stiff and rigid it actsto iron out orflatten the pleated material much more effectively than the wiperplates, the heat of the plate alone helping toset the material inflattened condition. The wiper plates-are then lifted, the heateris-removed, and the marginalv portions of the toe box are now found tobe securely stuck or-weldedlto the margins of the uppertand to the innersole,the pleated material lying fiat, smooth and level. In this mannerthe toe box is anchored Usually it is sufiicient to leave the securelyto the inner sole so as to impart unusual strength to the toe portion ofthe shoe. The notching of the toe box and the trimming of the liningreduces the bulk of the material at the toe so that except when theupper is thick, it is not a position as to interfere with the subsequentoperation of attaching the outer sole or to cause discomfort to thewearer. In order completely to eliminate metallic fasteners from theinside of the shoe I prefer to side last the shoe by the use of theso-called Littleway process in which staples which do not penetrate theinside of the insole are employed.

I am aware that it has been proposed to stick the margins of the upperand. lining to the inner sole by means of adhesive such as rubbercement, cellulose acetate or nitrate, or other cementitious substanceswhich take a long time to set, and

' that it has been proposed, when using such materials, to hold theparts in place while the ocment is setting by means of clampingplatesattached to the inner sole of the shoe by prongs or tacks, or to thelast itself by bolts, but'such processes necessitate the provision ofgreat numbers of the clamping plates and/or the employment of speciallasts; they slow up the lasting process and add to the cost ofproduction; they leave the inner sole with undesirable holes and in mostcases employ liquid cement which daubs the exposed parts of the upper,and these various disadvantages have brought such prior processes intodisrepute in the trade. Such prior proposed methods are not to becompared with the present preferred process wherein the heater plate isused to actuate the adhesive'and is associated with the shoe "for only afraction of a minute, for example approximately nine seconds.

I regard the present improved method as inclusive pf variousmodifications, such for example as cutting the lining so that afterlasting it does not overlap the inner sole to any substantial extent,thus making unnecessary the trimming step above described, and at thesame time affording a saving in the amount of lining material employed,or alternatively, cutting the lining as just suggested but leaving asmall central tab to act as a centering element in the pulling overoperation and to afford a grip for the' lasting nippers. Moreover if theupper includes a doubler, the latter also may be cut scant so as notsubstantially to overlap the inner sole after lasting. I alsocontemplate the employment of similar steps in lasting the heel portionof the upper, but at this part of the shoe, where the pleated materialis not so much condensed as at the toe, it is not usually necessary toshave off the overlapping folds in, order to obtain the desired flatbottom surface.

Furthermore, while I have described the invention in its preferredembodiment as employing a toe box having a normally dry or inactiveadhesive along its margin which becomes active when subjected to heat,the invention is not necessarily limited thereto since in certain of itsaspects it provides advantages, even though a more or less liquid cementmay be employed which is applied to the overlapping portions of the toebox and/or the upper just before the latter are wiped in or during thewiping-in operation.

In the accompanying drawing in which I have illustrated certaindesirable embodiments of the invention by way of example:

Fig. 1 is a bottom view of a shoe of a usual I type, showing theappearance of the parts at the completion of the side lasting operationand before the toe lasting has been completed;

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary bottom view of the shoe with the pulling overtacks removed and illustrating the performance of one desirable step ofthe present process;

Fig. 3 is a similar view illustrating in the process;

Fig. 4 is a plan view of a toe box or stiffener blank prepared inaccordance with the present invention;

Fig. 5 is a plan view of a heater plate useful in'performing the presentprocess;

Fig. 5 is a transverse section of the heating plate on the line 5 -5- ofFig. 5;

Fig. 6 is a side elevation of the same plate resting upon an electricstove and showing means for controlling the heat;

a later step Fig. '7 is a fragmentary bottom view of the front portionof the shoe illustrating the performance of one of the later steps ofthe process;

Fig. 8 is a fragmentary side elevation showing the parts positioned asin Fig. I;

Fig. 9 is a fragmentary longitudinal section showing a shoe on the lastat the completion of the present improved lasting process;

Fig. 10 is a fragmentary bottom view of the shoe at the completion ofthe lasting process;

and

Fig. 11 is a fragmentary view illustrating a lining having a centeringtab in accordance with one form of the invention.

For convenience, I have chosen to illustrate the invention as embodiedin a McKay shoe,-side lasted in accordance with the so-called Littlewayprocess, but it is to be understood that the invention is notnecessarily limited in all of its aspects at least to this type of shoe,nor is it dependent upon the particular side lasting process which maybe employed.

In Fig. 9 the last is indicated at L, the inner sole at 1, the upper,usually of leather, at 2, (such upper comprising, if desired, thedoubler 2 ,-commonly a piece of textile or other fabric cemented to theupper for strengthening the latter) the lining 3, and the toe box orstiffener 4.

In accordance with the present invention, the

toe box or stiffener blank 4 may consist of any of the usual materialsemployed for this purpose, such, for example, as felt or clothimpregnated with a suitable stiffening medium, and for best results Ifind it desirable to make this blank of such size that its forward edgeprojects substantially beyond the margin of the upper with which it isassembled. The blank is preferably provided at its margin with a seriesof notches 5 to reduce the amount of material at this point and thusfacilitate lasting. The marginal portion of the stiffener blank is alsopreferably skived or bevelled, and it is coated or impregnated with acementitious substance which may be identical with the stiffeningmaterial, for example if the well known Beckwith 'box toe be employedthe thermoplastic binder incorporated in the material of the box toe mayserve as the cementitious substance, preferably normally dry orsubstantially dry, that is to say,

,it may be manipulated by the operator.

inactive, but becomes active as a uniting medium, when heated. One suchmaterial which I have found suitable for the purpose consists of Cumargum, thinned with acetone and alcohol to the desired consistency forcoating and impregnating the stiffener, but I contemplate that otheradhesives may be found suitable for the purpose and do not wish toconfine myself to this particular form of cement.

In accordance with the present invention, I also provide a presser plate7, preferably shaped to conform more or less closely to the contour ofthe forepart of the shoe bottom; such plate conveniently being of metaland having a handle'8 of heat insulating material by means of which Thisplate 7 is of suitable thickness to furnish the desired amount of heat,and preferably is slightly concave as shown at '7 on its under surface,so as to confine its bearing surface to its outer margin. Forconvenience in heating this plate, I may provide a small electric stove10 having a resistance coil or coils 11; such stove being mountedconveniently to the bed lasting machine. Since different degrees of heatare found desirable for heating different upper materials, I may, ifdesired, provide the stove with a rheostat 12 for controlling thecurrent and, if desired, this rheostat may be provided with a pointer 13cooperating with a dial-having suitable graduations, or which is markedfor example, to correspond to the different classes of material.

Alternatively, I may use other forms of stove, or may provide the heaterplate itself with heating coils, and to vary the amount of heatavailable for such operation, I may (instead of using plates heated todifferent degrees) employ plates of different thicknesses or heatabsorbing capacity adapted to furnish a greater or lesser number of heatunits for the heating operation.

Having provided the above parts and materials, I proceed with thelasting of the shoe substantially as follows: The inner sole 1 is-tackedto the last in the usual manner, and the upper is then assembled andpulled over, preferably by means of usual pulling over machinery. whichinserts the pulling over tacks 14 at the toe portion of the upper,imparting to such toe portion the appearance shown in Fig. l. The shoeis then side lasted,

for example, by a machine which inserts the staples 15 for securing itsmargins to the inner sole, said staples in accordance with the usual andwell known Littleway process extending only part way through the innersole so as'not to penetrate its inner surface, and having their legportions so bent or curved as firmly to anchor themin place, and theheel portion of the upper may be lasted in more or less as desired atthis time.

The shoe is now ready for the completion of the lasting process inaccordance with the present invention, and at this stage of the process,the pulling over tacks 14 are withdrawn and the margin of the upper atthe forepart is opened out as shown in Fig. 2 and the surplus projectingpart of the lining 3 is preferably trimmed off sub stantially fiush withthe under side of the inner sole by means of a knife 16 or othersuitable instrument, thus exposing the projecting marginal portion ofthe stiffener ortoe box 4. Preferably, in accordance with the presentinvention the doubler 2 is cut scant so that it terminates as shown at2*, Fig. 9, substantially flush with the edge of the inner sole.

Alternatively, instead of cutting the lining full, and then cutting awayits margin after pulling over, I may cut it scant except for a centralprojecting tab 3 as shown on the lining 3" (Fig. 11) such tab serving tocenter the lining during pulling over and affording a hold for thelasting nippers, but being of small extent need not be cut away afterthe pulling over operation.

After themarginal portion of the lining has been removed as described,the toe portion is subjected to the usual operation of the wiper platesof the bed lasting machine, which wipe in the margin of the toe box andlining, forming pleats P in the material at the toe as shown for examplein Fig. 3. If the upper material is thick and bulky, it may be desirablein this point in the operation to shave off the pleated portion P of theupper at the toe, as for example by the use of a knife 17 or othersuitable instrument, such procedure being permissible in this case dueto the continuous attachment of the upper and the box to the inner soleafforded by the adhesive. However, this shaving operation may not benecessary if the toe portion of the shoe is not pointed or if thematerial of the upper is thin and I light. 7

Whether or not this shaving operation is performed, the heater plate '7is now removed from the stove 10 and laid upon the inturned marginalportions of the upper at the toe and the wiper plates W of the bedlasting machine are brought wiper plates of the bed laster. During thisshortinterval the heat of the plate 7 causes the adhesive on the marginof the toe box or stiffener 4 to become active and as such margin nowlies in direct contact with the under surface of the inner sole, (thelining at this point having been removed), and also in contact with theinner surface of the upper, the adhesive infiltrates into the substanceof both inner sole and upper, thus firmly welding or uniting the toe boxto the inner sole, and uniting the upper to the toe box or stiffener. Bythe time the heel lasting operation is ,completed the cementitioussubstance will have set and substantially resumed its normal hardcondition. The bed laster plates W are now lifted and the shoe iswithdrawn, leaving the marginal portions of the upper and stiffenerfirmly anchored to the inner sole by the cementitious material, as abovedescribed. The bottom of the shoe now has substantially the appearanceshown in Fig. 10, it being noted that at 18 (Fig. 10) where the pleatedmaterial has been shaved off at P (Fig. 3) a smooth flat surface is leftwithout any surplus material which requires subsequent removal, andthus. the usual operations of grinding and pounding are not necessary.After completion of the lasting operation just described the outer soleis laid directly over the folded-in edge portion of the upper andattached to the inner sole in accordance with the particular kind ofshoe which is being made. For example, if, as already suggested andherein specifically disclosed, the shoe be of McKay type, the outer soleis stitched to the inner sole in the usual manner by through-and-throughstitches.

While the present process is of particular utility in lasting the toe, Icontemplate that a similar process may be used in lasting the heel por-I upper after the lining has been trimmed awayas above described, andfor the latter purpose I also contemplate the use of a cement which issoftened by heat, but which hardens again very quickly, or a liquidcement which hardens and sets quickly when heated. For example, thesubstances known as Burgundy pitch and rubberlatex may be found usefulwhen the process is modified in these ways respectively. Various otherchanges in materials employed may be made without departing from thespirit of the invention and it is to be understood that the order ofsteps above enumerated may be varied as desired, and that when in theappended claims such steps are enumerated, thespecified order is not tobe regarded as a limitation.

I claim:

l. A shoe having an inner sole, an upper and a lining, the lining at theend of the shoe terminating substantially at the lower edge of the innersole, the marginal portionsof the upper extending beneath the innersole, means securing said marginal portions of the upper to the innersole, and permanent metallic fastenings holding the upper and insole inassembled relation along the sides of the shoe, said fastenings enteringthe insole but failing to penetrate its inner face.

2. A shoe having a sole member, an upper, a lining, and a toe box, thelining terminating substantially at the edge of the sole member at thetoe portion of the latter, the marginal portions of the upper and boxbeing disposed beneath the sole member, and adhesive permanentlysecuring said marginal portions to the sole member and to each other,and staplessecuring the upper to the insole along the sides of the shoe,said staples entering the insole but failing to penetrate its innerface,

3. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists insecuring the margin of upper materials in lasted position on the bottomface of an insole along portions at least of the opposite sides of ashoe by metallic fastenings anchored in the body of the insole withoutpenetrating its inner face, working the margin of the toe end portion ofupper material into lasted position upon the bottom face'of an insole ona last by the wipers of a lasting machine, retracting the wipers,interposing adhesive between the wipedin margin and the insole, applyinga presser member, devoid of work penetrating elements, to the wiped-inmarginal material, said member extending from the inner edge of suchmaterial outwardly at leastto the edge of the insole, forcing saidmember against said material by means of the lasting machine wipers withpressure sufiicient to flatten the material against the insole,maintaining such member in pressure applying relation to said margin bymeans of the wipers until the adhesive has substantially set, thereafterremoving said member, applying an outsole, and securing the latter tothe insole by suitable attaching means.

4.' A shoe having an inner sole and an upper, the latter including alining, the lining at the end of the shoe terminating substantially atthe plane of the bottom of the inner sole, the marginal portions of theupper overlapping and lying substantially parallel to and in contactwith the under surface of the insole, cementitious material permanentlyuniting said marginal portion of the upper to the inner sole, andconnecting means permanently uniting the upper and inner sole inassembled relation along the sides of the shoe, said connecting meansengaging the inner sole but failing to penetrate its inner. face.

5. A shoe having a sole memberfan upper including a lining and a .toebox, the lining terminating substantially at the plane of the bottom ofthe sole at the toe portion of the latter, the marginal portions of theupper and box being disposed beneath the solemember, and adhesivepermanently securing said marginal portions to the sole member and toeach other, and connecting means permanently uniting the upper to thesole member along the sides of the shoe, said connecting means engagingthe sole member but failing to penetrate its inner face.

6. A lasted shoe ready for application of an outer sole, said shoecomprising an inner sole, an upper including a lining, the lining at thetoe of the shoe terminating substantially at the plane of the lowersurface of the inner sole,'the marginal portion of the outer member ofthe upper being folded over onto the under surface of the inner sole,said folded-over marginal material being disposed in pleatsat the toe,the tops of the pleats being shaven oil so that the exposed surfaces ofall of the folded-over material is substantially fiat and level,cementitious material permanently securing the folded-over marginalmaterial at the toe of the shoe, and means permanently connecting thefolded-over material to the inner sole along the sides of the shoe, saidconnecting means engaging the inner sole but failing to penetrate theentire thickness of the latter.

JACOB S. KAMBORIAN.

